AMI Opens a New Chapter with FW23 Collection, Prelude
On January 19, fashion’s friendliest brand, AMI, presented its Fall Winter 2023 collection, Prelude, at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The fashion show follows last year’s special runway in South Korea — dedicated to their ‘f.AMI.ly’ in Seoul — and a short stint at Miami’s Art Basel where AMI showcased an exhibition titled Family. Known for emphasizing community and togetherness — their name literally means “friend” in French — AMI brought a collection heavily inspired by tailoring codes and their signature Parisian chic style. Taking in the collection from the front row were celebrities such as Carla Bruni, Dylan O’Brian, Usher, Stranger Things’ Noah Schnapp, and K-pop sensation, SEVENTEEN’s Hoshi.
The Collection
Trust Alexandre Mattiussi to reimagine French style with every AMI show. For his latest effort at the helm of the Parisian brand, Mattiussi built a polished wardrobe consisting of tailored essentials from trench coats and boxy jackets to tailored, loose trousers. With warm colors — light yellow, baby blue, and camel — and a mix of textures like wool, suede, and crystal-embellished fabric, the collection flawlessly transitioned from casual wear to night wear.
Of course, there was no shortage of knitwear — a staple of the brand. Polo tops, mini dresses, and sweaters contrasted with the brand’s bolder pieces like asymmetric skirts and sheer tops. Clean lines, sharp tailoring, and a delightful color palette made AMI’s FW23 collection a finely curated selection of looks that anyone would love to add to their closets.
The Set
AMI has always been known for creating wearable, functional clothes with a touch of French chic, so a return to Paris feels like a sentimental homecoming. In their Spring Summer 2023 presentation, the brand selected the rooftop of the basilica of Sacré-Cœur to host its show, offering a breathtaking view of The City of Love behind its runway. This time, AMI tapped L’Opéra Bastille as the venue to unveil its collection.
The opera house is internationally renowned for its spacious facilities, including its 2,745 seats and an orchestra pit that seats 130 musicians. It was designed by architect Carlos Ott, who was granted the project after winning a competition against more than 1,700 architects across the globe. For the occasion, AMI turned the auditorium into a large runway with dim lights that contrasted with the light-colored flooring.
The Guests
Of course, an AMI show isn’t complete without their f.AMI.ly gracing the front row. Amongst the stars in attendance, SEVENTEEN’s Hoshi shone under the spotlight dressed in a sleek look that featured a pinstripe jacket, leather pants, and a shirt, accessorized with an embellished scarf. Previously, the idol had been spotted cheerfully departing from Seoul, clad in head-to-toe AMI with an ivory structured coat, the signature Accordeon bag, and low-top Ami De Coeur sneakers.
Flaunting his bubbly personality, the idol was a perfect feature in the VIP section of AMI’s show. The singer — who is already well-known among the fashion circles in his home country — interacted with several showgoers, starring in Internet viral moments like a meeting with Usher and the Japanese actor Shohei Miura.
The Future
In 2022, Mattiusi revealed that the brand had multiplied its turnover by four times over the past two years. The French brand then kicked off expansion plans with the opening of its biggest flagship store yet, spanning over 300 square meters in Seoul.
With the scale of its latest show, it is evident that AMI has grown into a brand with both refined aesthetics and its classic, easygoing style – these are clothes you actually want to wear. AMI is also increasingly popular amongst youth across the globe, hinting at bright opportunities for the brand — Gen Z has become a demographic with impactful spending power in the fashion industry. If their aptly titled “Prelude” FW23 runway is anything to go by, all signs point to an optimistic future for AMI.
Interested in more Paris Men’s Fashion Week coverage? Check out the latest collections by Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto here.
